a matter of taste

The Whos down in Whoville enjoyed rare Who roast beast, but that’s not the strangest holiday food we know of. Mutterhood recently paged through a few cookbooks from the late 1950s for holiday favorites that may or may not have stood the test of time.

Jell-O molds. Apricot, cherry, orange and pineapple — such are the fruits of this mid-century classic. Stranger are the ones made with vegetables such as broccoli (with consommé and eggs), and others that defy good taste, like Frosted Mint (gelatin, pineapple, mint jelly and sour cream). We also found something called Watergate Salad (crushed pineapple, pistachio pudding, Cool Whip, mini marshmallows and pecans) and while we have no idea what the connection to Watergate is, it did make us smile (and our teeth hurt from the sweetness). 

Mincemeat. An English Christmas tradition, mincemeat is a mix of chopped dried fruit (typically raisins, cherries and dates), brandy and/or whisky, spices and finely chopped beef or beef suet (and if you were my grandmother, lots of sugar). It was baked into pies and cookies, which were glazed with a sweet icing. Is this still a holiday thing? Maybe in England.

Divinity. Like traditional fudge, only white and with a lighter texture, this holiday confection makes a lovely contrast to trays of chocolate on a holiday buffet table. For a fancier presentation, rather than slice divinity like fudge, spoon it into white puffs and top with a toasted pecan. Haven’t seen this one in awhile, but it may be time to bring it back.

As for recipes, the simple formula for Brandy Hard Sauce seems doable: “Cream butter until light. Gradually beat in powdered sugar and brandy. Add more brandy, if desired. Chill.” 

The most impressive holiday idea we found comes from Thoughts for Buffets, published in 1958, which suggests “Fruit Aflame” as a garnish for turkey. Here’s how to do it: Place the roasted turkey on a platter and surround it with sliced pineapple rings. Place half of a canned peach in each ring, then soak a sugar cube in lemon extract and place one cube in each peach half. Just before serving, light the sugar cubes with a match, turn off the lights in the dining room and carry in the platter, aflame.

It’s a holiday show-stopper that we’re bringing back in 2018.